Water and Whisky

This morning we checked out of our hotel in Edinburgh and loaded up in the rental car, a lovely VW Sharan minivan. It isn’t too big, but had just the right amount of space for all of us. All loaded up we drove out of the city and across the Firth Bridge.

We headed north to our first stop, Loch Levan. Known for its “wee” castle on an island only accessible by a summer boat and as a bird sanctuary. It’s ideal setting didn’t disappoint! We entered the visitor’s centre and were greeted by Mr. Davids, a retiree and  volunteer. He was very knowledgeable about birds and was able to show us through a couple of viewing telescopes a stunning group of yellow and black beaked swans. This breed isn’t very common in the area and can only be seen briefly this time of year as they migrate south from Sweden.

Next we drove about an hour north passing through the large city of Perth and stopped in the quaint midlands town of Dunkeld. The scenic village is situated along the River Tay. This was a favorite spot for Beatrix Potter. She was inspired by the local wildlife for some of her stories. The adjacent town is named Birnam which some may recall is quoted in Shakespeare’s MacBeth. The famous Birnam Woods reside in the area. However, only one mighty oak remains from the 700 yr. old portion of the forest. It is now considered a national treasure and is located about 100ft from the riverbank. We parked in town, crossed the river, and then walked down the riverbank on a little dirt path to the tree. Afterwards the kids enjoyed playing with massive sticks they found along the riverbank, which had a gentle incline. We also skipped rocks into the river.

A quick bite to eat (I particularly enjoyed my plate of local salmon, scrambled eggs, and toast) and we headed north again passing through the famous Pass of Killiekrankie and officially into the Highlands! The next stop was at Dalwhinnie Distillery, Scotland’s highest elevated distillery at 1164ft.  Dalwhinnie means “gathering place” and the early farmers would meet at the crossroads and drive their cattle to market in Pitlochry and towns further south. Over the centuries a little village sprung up there and then a distillery in 1898. The Distillery was offering free tours for the winter so after a nice “tea” we took the last tour at 4:00pm. Mr. Peter was very informative and the kids asked some really good questions. We were in a small group of 16. The Distillery itself is rather small with only one Wash and one Spirits Still, however they make enough Single Malt Whisky to ship worldwide. Liam is interested in organic chemistry and in particular brewing or distilling. Our kids enjoy the science and process in making beer, whisky, and wine. We actually vent our own wine at home. After the tour the adults were treated to a tasting of the 15 yr. old and their latest 3 yr. old. Single Malt must stay casked and be made in Scotland to be considered a Scotch Whisky. They gave the kids chocolate and fruit water.

When we exited the distillery just as the sun had set and the moon risen to about 2 o’clock in the sky. It was a brilliant full, white, moon with just a wee halo. The shadows and silhouettes of the wispy clouds, and snow-covered mountains gave an air of ethereal beauty! I’ve truly never experienced anything so pure and mystical. One could see where the stories of the ancient Highlanders came from as we drove through the magical moonlit landscape!

After 90 minutes of driving and stopping for gorgeous nighttime photographs of moonlit lochs, we arrived at Briar Banks, our bed and breakfast on Loch Ness. Outside the home of May and Duncan McIntosh I took a beautiful photograph of Loch Ness in the mysterious moonlight! Mr. McIntosh greeted us in his kilt, showed the boys his homemade Claymore Sword, and then offered us a dram of whisky. We said thank you, but could we have a bit of supper first. Mrs. McIntosh directed us to the Loch Inn Pub. Upon our return the whisky was poured, and yes we even let the kids have a taste like we do at home, and the stories flowed! Their daughter and granddaughter were visiting, so Faywen had great fun playing with 9 month old Maya! Mr. McIntosh spun stories about his own encounter with the Loch Ness Monster, and how he used to deliver milk as a teenager to Balmoral Castle. A few times the Queen Mum sat in the garden and gave him tea and egg and toast! After a lovely 2 hour visit we headed off to bed with a warm glow of whisky and genuine Highland hospitality!