Paris Day 1: Our Lady and Saint Louis

I can see the puzzled looks on your faces at the above title! Perhaps the following will clarify the title. So grab some good cheese and a baguette and I’ll unfold today’s adventures in Paris!

First there are no longer heavy English breakfasts to fill our bellies. We are on the continent now and that means bread, yogurt, cheese, butter, and jams for breakfast. Of course there’s always room for coffee, tea, and juice! Though cloudy and cold in Paris today our spirits were high as we walked yet again the seven minutes up to Notre Dame. We entered this iconic cathedral and had to adjust our eyes to the low lighting. It was a cathedral primarily lit by the sunlight streaming through the stain glass windows and by candles burning in the various chapels of prayer. The interior was made of dark stone and wood, but sumptuous! Photos were allowed everywhere but in the choir and high altar area of the cathedral.

Notre Dame, Paris, France
Standing on a bridge over the Seine River in front of Notre Dame
Madonna and Child (Mary and Jesus) on the side of the High Altar
Notre Dame means “Our Lady” in reference to Mary

Inside Notre Dame
A glimpse of the choir stalls with the “Our Lady” statue

Notre Dame was built between 1163-1360 with upgrades as recent as 1860 when they put in a new floor. Notre Dame is considered one of the greatest gothic style cathedrals complete with large stain glass windows, floor to ceiling paintings, statues, and even little gargoyles lining the rooftop. The kids immediately inquired if we could climb to the top of this cathedral too! And of course we did… all 422 steps! The views of Paris from the top were stunning. The city sprawled out endless miles below with the Seine River winding it’s way down the middle. You could even count many of the Seines famous bridges from the top.

One of the bells of Notre Dame:
Yes it did ring while were up on the roof. Thank goodness we weren’t in the bell tower proper!
Rooftop gargoyles at eye level!
View from the top of Notre Dame

Once back down the spiral staircases we meandered through the various chapels whose saints were venerated with statues and paintings. I liked the baptismal font and the chapel where Louis IX of France was buried in the 13th century. He is also known as St. Louis. Yep, that’s where the American city of St. Louis, Missouri gets its name… after good ole King Louis IX! A beautiful chapel nearby was called the Crown of Thorns Chapel. Inside this little alcove stood a large wooden cross with a crown of thorns hanging around it. St. Louis (King Louis IX of France) is said to have walked the streets of Paris barefoot in true repentance while wearing the crown.

Crucifixion Chapel
St. Joseph and Jesus:
This was my favorite chapel and statue. So often Joseph is overlooked in the church. It was nice to see such a touching portrayal of him and his son.
Grave of King Louis IX:
This is his chapel since he was made a saint.

Baptismal font
Cross of Thorns Chapel

As we walked around the bells struck noon and midday Mass began. We watched as the clergy and choir processed solemnly down the side aisle and into the choir stalls and high alter. Their voices resonated off the old stone of the cathedral. We stayed for a bit of Mass and then left listening to the congregation singing the liturgical responses as we passed through the massive oak doors into the square.

By this time we had worked up a grand appetite and found a nice restaurant across the street from the cathedral. Tucked away in a corner of the crowded restaurant we admired the charming 1920’s décor. Our waiter was very attentive and we all enjoyed dishes of classic French food, Croque Monsieur and Quiche Fontaine.

Feeling revived after the morning’s exploration of Notre Dame we walked about 5 blocks and found the Sainte Chapelle. Built by King Louis IX (same guy mentioned above) as a tribute to Christ in the 13th century, it is one of Paris’ hidden jewels. Louis was France’s most pious and religious king. He became so after failing at a crusade. His lifelong self-inflicted penitence made him humble and kind to his people. He often went amongst them dressed in rags and served the poor food and drink. He was canonized a saint just a few decades after his death. Sainte Chapelle is the exception to his vow of poverty, because he wanted to build a heavenly royal chapel for Christ to reign from after his return to earth.

Sainte Chapelle
In front of the high altar
The magnificent ceiling of Sainte Chapelle

I will say if this was Louis aim he and the craftsmen accomplished the feat beautifully! The Chapelle was stunning with its long stain glassed windows depicting complete books of the Bible, including the book of Job, Genesis, Kings, Numbers, Esther and even Revelations. Behind the high altar were the four Gospels. The patterns on the walls were painted to look like draperies and the floors painted in brilliant colors. The entire Chapelle was inlaid with gold leaf. The ceilings soared above and crisscrossed in roman arches painted blue and set with tiny Fleur de Lis. There was a small hall like chapel underneath the main Chapelle that was also decorated in the same beautiful manner.

Walls painted to look like drapes
Sainte Chapelle
Christ on his throne!
Fleur de Lis

We left the Chapelle and went to do a little shopping in the quaint shops in the narrow winding streets around Notre Dame. Finally, we ended up at a Marks and Spencer where we bought some various cheeses and meats, olives and candies. After dropping the kids off at the hotel, Robert and I went out and found a local wine shop and bakery for fresh baguettes!