A quick jaunt down the street and we boarded our first double decker metro train, which took us out to Versailles. Located about 20 miles southwest of Paris, it took us about an hour to reach our destination. We enjoyed seeing all of the Parisian suburbs and little villages outside of town every time we stopped. Once we arrived at the town of Versailles we walked down the main double boulevard up to the gates of Chateau Versailles. It wasn’t hard to miss with its stunning golden gates and large black and white marble square. The palace itself is three sided with the most opulent building in the middle.

It was a bit busy and we had to wait about 20 minutes for entry into the palace, but it was worth the wait! Once inside our eyes were met with elegant marble columns and a long open hall with large doors that brought in the light from the gardens beyond. This was the least decorated part of the palace. Then it was time to put on our anti glitter goggles and head into the royal apartments!

We stepped first into the apartments of the daughters of King Louis XIV the Sun King! Louis XIV built Chateau Versailles starting in 1682 and it was completed (including the gardens) 40 years later. It started off as his favorite hunting lodge, a place to get away from the busy life and lights of Paris. Louis commissioned the first middle palace and later added on the two wings for family and courtiers. He often held elaborate masquerades in the square behind the glittering gold gates!

The opulence of his daughters’ apartments was breathtaking, but came nowhere near the gilded glory and voluptuous velvets that met our eyes in the King and Queen’s own private apartments. It was customary at the time that as one progressed down the hallway each room in the apartment became more and more grand and also private too. By the time we reached the King’s private bedroom not one inch of the wall was left plain. Paintings on the ceiling and walls, gold carved trim, grand mirrors, and fine tapestries made the room overwhelmingly beautiful! It was almost too much to take in at one viewing!

Believe it or not we were in for a further shock to our optical sensors. After a quick pass through another tame looking black and white marble antechamber we went into the famous Versailles Hall of Mirrors! This long salon is where Louis “shined” as the Sun King. 17 gold and fine glass floor length mirrors stood opposite 17 corresponding windows. Massive candlelit chandeliers hung up and down the 25+ foot tall salon where Louis hosted banquets and balls!

In the gardens our eyes had a chance to readjust to “non-blingy” spaces. The gardens though not in bloom were still lovely to walk around in because you could see the formal hedges with reflecting pools. Even a lovely white swan glided past as we gazed out onto the shallow oblong pool where the ornamental evergreen shrubs softened the gravel paths and the stone carvings.

Lulled into a restful nap by the commuter train back to Paris we all dreamed of gold and silver, velvet and fine linens harking back to a time when France was at the height of it’s imperial wealth. Within a few generations after Louis XIV’s death France would be rebelling against such opulent wealth, high status, and the monarchy.

Once back in Paris we had a bit of time until the shops closed so we did a little shopping and visited a famous Parisian bookstore. Ironically it is called Shakespeare and Company and is located along the Square of Notre Dame. It was founded by a Mrs. Beach who encouraged such writers as Elliot , Fitzgerald, and Hemmingway to sit in her bookstore and write, inspired by the comings and goings of people, animals, and boats upon the Seine River just outside the bookstore window. Today the bookstore offers large collections of modern and antiques books. I found a lovely little leather bound copy of my favorite Shakespearean play Much Ado About Nothing. It was printed in 1913. Unfortunately Faywen didn’t find a nice old copy of any of her favorite plays, but she enjoyed looking at all the old books on the shelves. We stopped by the local market and grabbed some food for a nice dinner back

I can see the puzzled looks on your faces at the above title! Perhaps the following will clarify the title. So grab some good cheese and a baguette and I’ll unfold today’s adventures in Paris!

First there are no longer heavy English breakfasts to fill our bellies. We are on the continent now and that means bread, yogurt, cheese, butter, and jams for breakfast. Of course there’s always room for coffee, tea, and juice! Though cloudy and cold in Paris today our spirits were high as we walked yet again the seven minutes up to Notre Dame. We entered this iconic cathedral and had to adjust our eyes to the low lighting. It was a cathedral primarily lit by the sunlight streaming through the stain glass windows and by candles burning in the various chapels of prayer. The interior was made of dark stone and wood, but sumptuous! Photos were allowed everywhere but in the choir and high altar area of the cathedral.

Notre Dame was built between 1163-1360 with upgrades as recent as 1860 when they put in a new floor. Notre Dame is considered one of the greatest gothic style cathedrals complete with large stain glass windows, floor to ceiling paintings, statues, and even little gargoyles lining the rooftop. The kids immediately inquired if we could climb to the top of this cathedral too! And of course we did… all 422 steps! The views of Paris from the top were stunning. The city sprawled out endless miles below with the Seine River winding it’s way down the middle. You could even count many of the Seines famous bridges from the top.

Once back down the spiral staircases we meandered through the various chapels whose saints were venerated with statues and paintings. I liked the baptismal font and the chapel where Louis IX of France was buried in the 13^th century. He is also known as St. Louis. Yep, that’s where the American city of St. Louis, Missouri gets its name… after good ole King Louis IX! A beautiful chapel nearby was called the Crown of Thorns Chapel. Inside this little alcove stood a large wooden cross with a crown of thorns hanging around it. St. Louis (King Louis IX of France) is said to have walked the streets of Paris barefoot in true repentance while wearing the crown.

As we walked around the bells struck noon and midday Mass began. We watched as the clergy and choir processed solemnly down the side aisle and into the choir stalls and high alter. Their voices resonated off the old stone of the cathedral. We stayed for a bit of Mass and then left listening to the congregation singing the liturgical responses as we passed through the massive oak doors into the square.

By this time we had worked up a grand appetite and found a nice restaurant across the street from the cathedral. Tucked away in a corner of the crowded restaurant we admired the charming 1920’s décor. Our waiter was very attentive and we all enjoyed dishes of classic French food, Croque Monsieur and Quiche Fontaine.

Feeling revived after the morning’s exploration of Notre Dame we walked about 5 blocks and found the Sainte Chapelle. Built by King Louis IX (same guy mentioned above) as a tribute to Christ in the 13^th century, it is one of Paris’ hidden jewels. Louis was France’s most pious and religious king. He became so after failing at a crusade. His lifelong self-inflicted penitence made him humble and kind to his people. He often went amongst them dressed in rags and served the poor food and drink. He was canonized a saint just a few decades after his death. Sainte Chapelle is the exception to his vow of poverty, because he wanted to build a heavenly royal chapel for Christ to reign from after his return to earth.

I will say if this was Louis aim he and the craftsmen accomplished the feat beautifully! The Chapelle was stunning with its long stain glassed windows depicting complete books of the Bible, including the book of Job, Genesis, Kings, Numbers, Esther and even Revelations. Behind the high altar were the four Gospels. The patterns on the walls were painted to look like draperies and the floors painted in brilliant colors. The entire Chapelle was inlaid with gold leaf. The ceilings soared above and crisscrossed in roman arches painted blue and set with tiny Fleur de Lis. There was a small hall like chapel underneath the main Chapelle that was also decorated in the same beautiful manner.

We left the Chapelle and went to do a little shopping in the quaint shops in the narrow winding streets around Notre Dame. Finally, we ended up at a Marks and Spencer where we bought some various cheeses and meats, olives and candies. After dropping the kids off at the hotel, Robert and I went out and found a local wine shop and bakery for fresh baguettes!

Once we finished eating our last full English breakfast, we took the Underground over to St. Pancras/Kings Cross station were we boarded the Eurostar train to Paris, France. This special high-speed train started operating soon after the Chunnel (tunnel under the English Channel) opened in May 1994. The kids were very excited to get to travel on the Eurostar. We cleared security and then had to pass through International French customs before leaving England, because once at the Gare du Nord train station in Paris there is no customs or international checkpoint. It was busy, but everything went smoothly and we made it in plenty of time to board our 11:31am train.

Once on board we stored our luggage and took our seats, which were two facing two. Liam sat across the aisle in another grouping of four. The train took off and but for a little rocking motion occasionally, the ride was smooth. We were traveling over 300kph (186mph), yet within the channel tunnel it reduced to 160kph (100mph). The whole train ride lasted about 2.5 hours. Paris is actually one hour ahead of London so we set our clocks forward an hour when we arrived in the Central European Time zone. We are now 6 hours ahead of Grand Rapids, MI.  

Faywen was very excited when we popped up out of the Chunnel and the French countryside spread out before us! As we traveled through the Chunnel we munched on snacks and played the card game Uno to pass the time.

Once inside the Gare du Nord it was time to figure out which Metro line would take us close to our hotel. The RERB line was just right with only 2 stops before getting off at Sainte Michelle. After ascending the various escalators from the Metro subway we were greeting with a lovely first view of Paris! The stunning stone 4 story buildings with wrought iron balconies shimmered in the sunlight. Robert aend Liam had both downloaded a street map of Paris and soon we were on our way with our little rolling luggage bouncing on through the stone sidewalks and streets of Paris!

The Hotel Marignon is actually more like a European Inn than a large hotel. There are only 36 rooms and our just happened to be on the first floor. After a rest and some refreshment we took to the streets and meandered our way down to the Seine River and Notre Dame. This iconic cathedral is only about a 7 minute walk from our hotel. The sun was low and brilliant in the sky. The stonework of Notre Dame reflected the warm orange hues of the setting sun. Though the air was crisp, one’s soul felt the warmth of the sun reflecting on the mighty façade of such an elegant lady, Notre Dame. After walking around we found a nice little restaurant and ate dinner. We found a classic baguette and galette to munch on back in the room. A galette is a traditional pastry eaten in French countries only during the season of Epiphany. It is the Three Kings Cake and often little toys are found inside. We did find a little porcelain Wise Man in ours!

Time to go underground! The kids and Robert had their first experiences riding the London Underground or Tube, as the locals call it. The Tube was exactly how I remembered it from 2 decades ago, clean and efficient. Though it did have some nice modern upgrades! We entered at Westminster and popped out at Tower Hill.

Once out of the subway system we crossed the road and entered The Tower of London. Soon after entering Faywen got very excited when she saw and heard her first raven! The Ravens of Tower Hill are icons of London. Legend tells that 6 black ravens must at all times reside in the Tower of London or else the kingdom will fall! Currently there are 7 ravens that protect the tower and monarchy. They are taken care of very well… actually they’re spoiled! The legendary Beefeaters are appointed by the Queen to watch the birds and they reside in and protect the Tower. While at the Tower we met a Beefeater named Henry who had serviced in the Royal Navy for 22 years and then was appointed for life as a Beefeater at the Tower. He told us there are 3 boys and 4 girls and his favorite two were Poppy and Melinda.

Our first stop within the Tower of London was the building where the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom are housed. It was lovely seeing all of the stunning scepters, orbs, crowns, ceremonial religious items, and royal robes. The last case contained the crown, which was used at Queen Elizabeth II coronation in 1953. Liam asked the guard in the Crown Room about the massive metal security doors. He was very nice and told Liam a bit about the security, remarking that it’s kept in this state of the art modern vault, but when taken out once a year for the Queen to wear at the opening of Parliament, it’s only carried in a double thick leather box with minimal trained escort!

Across the courtyard from the Crown Jewels exhibition stands the 1000yr. old White Tower. This was the original Tower of London and was commissioned by William the Conqueror. As one gazed up the White Tower’s formidable size was impressive. Not to mention it sparked white in the sunlight! One must ascend a set of wooden stairs in order to reach he main door to the medieval fortress. Upon entering the boys’ mouths dropped opened as a wall of medieval and renaissance “heavy metal” met their eyes! Yes, we were in the armory with all its glorious sets of knight’s armor and weaponry! I distinctly remember the room from 2 decades ago, especially the armor of King Henry VIII and his warhorse! Up the great spiral staircase we found the first chapel built by William the Conqueror in 1068-70, St John’s Chapel. The sunlight streamed in through the stain glass windows into the simple light stone chapel making the whole place dance with rainbows!

Then the tides turned, from angelic harmony of chapel and royal apartments to the seedier darker side of the Tower of London…a place of imprisonment, death, and murder (cue creepy music). However after touring Bloody Tower and Tower Green, we were surprised to find out that most of the Tower’s prisoners were kept there during the 1500’s. This was probably due to the unrest of the Catholic and Protestant upheaval. Here’s one prisoner I didn’t know about… William Penn was imprisoned for three years in the tower before being told to leave the country. He did so and led fellow Quakers who helped settle the state of Pennsylvania! Tower Green no longer has the “block” in the courtyard, but now has a nice memorial to the dead in its place.

A quick tea and treats and we headed out of the tower and to All Hallows Church by the Tower. This little unknown church is the oldest in London. It was first built in 675AD out of wood, but parts of a stone church can still be seen from the 8^th century. There was a lovely little chapel in the 8^th-10^th century undercroft called the Chapel of St. Francis and St. Dominic.  A little sign stated that it was the quietest place in all of London. The chapel also had incredible acoustics. Liam started singing in his deep bass voice and stopped when he and I felt the vibrations move through our bodies. It seems he found the exact pitch of the stone masonry within the little chapel… C3 to be exact! It was an eerie and amazing experience feeling the single C3 pitch vibrate off the ancient stones and through your body! This is also the church where President John Quincy Adams got married.

Following the bank of the Thames River we were greeted with the famous white dome of St. Paul’s Cathedral. Climbing the front steps we entered this other well-known church of London. Royal weddings and funerals have taken place here including the first State funeral of former Prime Minister Winston Churchill back in the 1960’s.

St. Paul’s dome weighs upwards of 62,000 toms and bodes one of the best views of all London. We climbed the 579 steps to the top and carefully navigated the 2ft. wide walkway that surrounds the dome. The sun was low on the horizon and peeped out below the clouds. It made the city glow in a red-orange hue that danced upon the water of the Thames River. From tip top to the very bowels of the building we found ourselves in the massive undercroft looking at the magnificent graves of Lord Horatio Nelson (we can’t seem to get enough of this guy first seeing his ship, then monument, now grave) and also the graves of the Duke of Wellington and Arthur Sullivan (as in Gilbert and Sullivan).

At 4:30 docents and church staff invited visitors to join in the Sung Eucharist for Candlemas. This is the service held on Feb. 2^nd to recall and celebrate Jesus’’ presentation at the temple when he was 40 days old. We knew the service was going to take place so we gathered with the rest of the parishioners in the back of the sanctuary. We were given candles and had a nice time speaking with church members. At 5:00 the clergy and choir came and stood in front of where were were and Mass began. As the choir sang the candles were lit and we all processed up the majestic aisle of St. Paul’s Cathedral only with candlelight. Words alone cannot express the awe and beauty of this act of simple humble worship. Once at the front we filed into our seats and worshiped Christ. The voices of the boys/men’s choir echoed off the marbled walls and the incense ascended into the heavens of the dome. Since we are all professing communed Christians, we were able to take Communion. Singing the congregational responses and hymns was lovely! After Mass we got to greet the Vicar and he had a nice chat with us all. He immediately inquired if folks we knew in Michigan were safe and warm because the Polar Vortex. It has made the papers over here! We even saw an article in a newspaper the day before on the train to Hampton Court!

As we descended the great staircase of St. Paul’s we all felt spiritually fed. It was nice to go to church after traveling around for three weeks. God is still a central part of life in central London!

“Ding ding” rang the bell as we boarded our train on platform 2 at Waterloo Station in central London. Southwest Rail is an above ground commuter train that services the greater London area and has a direct line to Hampton Court. This little town is home to England’s largest palace also named Hampton Court.

Wealthy aristocrats have lived in the area since the 12^th century, but it wasn’t until Cardinal Wolsey, began construction on his own home along the Thames River that Hampton Court would become a favorite of British kings and queens. Young Henry VIII was advised by Wolsey and often visited him at Hampton Court. As Wolsey’s “palace” grew Henry became obsessed with the beauty of the place and wanted it for himself. He didn’t like the fact that a Cardinal had a grander house than the king! Eventually Wolsey was persuaded to hand over the palace to Henry, but allowed to still live on the premises. Years later Wolsey was forced out of the palace after he failed to petition the Pope for Henry’s divorce from his queen, Catherine of Aragon.

Henry built a Great Hall, surrounding royal apartments, and even installed an amazing clock in the main courtyard tower. This clock still chimes the hour and quarter hours faithfully today. It also depicts the zodiac, phases of the moon, and the tide of the River Thames. Henry enjoyed hunting on the grounds and holding lavish banquets in the main hall. Hampton Court was his favorite palace.

Henry’s son, Edward IV and later his daughter the famous Queen Elizabeth I, also loved the palace. British kings and queens all the way through George II and his wife Caroline used Hampton Court. William III and Mary II added onto the original Tudor aged palace, however Mary died before seeing the finished baroque style home that was inspired by Louis XIV’s Palace of Versailles. Queen Anne added a few more feminine touches after her sister Mary died and the upstairs apartments were eventually fitted with the tastes of George I and his son, George II. Stunning gardens were added and the hunting park was turned into a massive maze and arboretum. The Stuarts and Georgian royalty kept intact the original Tudor features from Henry VIII’s time as a “relic to bygone days”. Good thing for us they did so!

During the reign of Queen Victoria the two connected palaces were sublet to people of importance like war heroes or famous politicians. The last renters of a sublet apartment in Hampton Court moved out in the 1970’s. At that point it was turned over to the National Trust and turned into a museum. Extensive renovations and refurbishments have occurred over the last 40+ years. In fact while we were visiting they were removing old light bulbs and faulty wiring from the Great Tudor Hall of Henry VIII. It was nice to see the Hall diligently being taken care of.

A family favorite from today’s day excursion included the 45 minute Queen Anne tour. Two women dressed in period costume acted as members of the queen’s staff and treated us as if we were visitors to the palace in 1702. This is when Queen Anne took the throne. Other enjoyable parts of the palace were The Great Hall, Chapel Royal which is still in use today as a place of worship, Georgian Drawing Room where we sat and played games as the couriers would, and the massive Tudor period kitchens! The kitchens in particular were a favorite because of the real fire burning in the huge fireplace. Very few of the palace rooms had heat and it was wet, drizzly, and chilly today. The docents all wore red wool knee length coats, which made them easy to spot as well as kept them toasty warm. We too warmed up on the 35 minute train ride back to Waterloo Station.