Arbeit Macht Frei

Today’s blog starts on a more somber note. On 14 April we visited the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial in Dachau, Germany. Located about 20 minutes NW of Munich, Dachau was the first Concentration Camp built by the Nazi Party in 1933. It was a male prison work camp primarily for political and business opponents to the Nazi ideals. There were ethnic prisoners as well starting in the 1940’s, however most of the prisoners were Catholic/Protestant, rather than Jewish. Many of the campers were part of the ethnically despised Gypsy race.

Memorial Grounds Sign
Original photo of the camp

 The prisoners built the camp facilities themselves by working 16 hour-long days under the direction of the SS. It was the hardest labor camp in the area and many men died of exhaustion. Though there was a small gas chamber it was never used. Interestingly some prisoners were released after serving time there, but their spirits were broken by means of physical and emotional torture.

I visited the camp 26 years ago and it is a place I’ve always wanted to take my children. It changed my life and perspective, especially regarding the cruelty of human nature. I believe it did the same for Robert and the kids. The facility and museum is in much nicer condition now. The various presentations and the Catholic, Protestant, and Jewish memorial buildings are a humble reminder that cruelty happens across all ethnic and religious groups. There were prisoners from as far away as Greece and Russia in the camp.

It was a cool day, and as you walked through the museum, roll call courtyard, and bunkhouses your blood was chilled and your heart humbled. May all who suffered in any concentration camp always be remembered!

This is my favorite photo. Faywen was sitting reflecting on everything we had seen at Dachau. She is sitting in front of the old crematorium building. She was so lost in thought she didn’t realize I even took this photo.

The gate to the Dachau Concentration Camp simply read “Arbeit Macht Frei” or “Work Makes You Free”.

The original gate
This is the Liberation Plaque That was on the wall just inside the gate.

In the afternoon sunshine we drove 2 hours to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a quaint medieval village on the Tauber River. I’ve been to this amazing little village a couple of times and one can’t help but feel in awe of the beauty of the place. It was completely different than Dachau.

The village dates back to the 11th century and is one of a few villages that is completely surrounded by the original 13th century medieval wall and gates. You can even walk the entire wall ramparts and look down into the medieval streets of the village. All the homes were built between the 13th and 17th centuries. There are absolutely no modern structures within the walls of the village.

The kids had fun climbing up the towers and walking on the walls!

The kids really enjoyed walking along the walls and exploring the towers. Since it was a Sunday, the village was very quiet. We were the only people up on the walls. It was truly magical! We also explored the village streets admiring the homes and their gardens. On the main high street a few restaurants were open and we found a charming little café to eat dinner. The waitress was very friendly and enjoyed practicing her English as much as we practiced our German!

Section of newer wall from the 15th century
On the wall
Window shopping: The next day we went shopping and everyone loved these delicious Sneeballs!
16th century fountain covered in real decorated Easter eggs: Each egg had been blown out and hand painted!

After a hearty supper we once again took to the walls and enjoyed listening to the church bells of St. Jakob ring the hour as the sun cast it’s brilliant orange glow over the rooftops of the old village. The stones and wood of the walls were bathed in a warm light… evening sunlight those walls have witnessed for 700 years!

St. Jakob’s as seen from the wall

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