The Master’s Apprentice

Cloudy, but not rainy we headed over the river via tram to Prague Castle. We arrived just in time to see the Changing of the Guard. After the 10-minute ceremony we entered the castle complex and went straight to St. Vitus, the 14th century gothic church that lies right in the centre of the castle. St. Vitus can be seen even from across the river with it’s dark stone and towering 15th century spires. Inside are the tombs of St. Vitus and St. Wenceslas. St. Vitus’ tomb was quite impressive with the phenomenal ornate silverwork tomb lying behind the High Altar. St. Wenceslas, who we know from the Christmas Carol “Good King Wenceslas Looked Down on the Feast of Stephen” is the patron Saint of Prague. He was also a beloved King of the Bohemian people ruling in the early 10th century. He had an entire chapel for his burial.

Changing of the Guard:
Though there is no more royal family the guard is kept to watch over the Castle and the President.
Inside St. Vitus in Prague
Backside of St. Vitus Church

A few steps from St. Vitus was the Basilica of St. George which was smaller and built in the year 972.  The inside of St. George’s was much simpler, but elegant. The frescos were faded on the walls and yet the light played with the eyes as you looked up at the vaulted stone alcoves along the second floor.

High Altar from the 10th century

We meandered through the palace streets and soon found ourselves in the Egermann Glass Shop. Egermann is one of the oldest Czech Bohemian Crystal producers. The etched glasses and porcelain pieces were stunning. While we shopped Liam intently watched the master glass etcher, Mr. Bobela. After 20 minutes or so or. Bobela invited Liam to try and etch on a wine glass he had been working on. We found out later from a clerk, that this was a rare occurrence and that Liam was the youngest person ever to be taught by the 30+ year master! Mr. Bobela showed Laiam how to use the etching wheel and lathe. He carefully instructed Liam on how to etch a flower. Liam used the freshly etched flower on the other side of the glass as a guide. It took Liam about 20 minutes to make the flower and vine. Mr. Bobela was very impressed with Liam’s “natural talent” and said that Liam had “an eye” for the detailed work. Mr. Bobela etched his name and Liam’s name slightly bigger along with the date, into the red crystal wine glass. The red color comes from triple firing the crystal mixed with gold. Mr. Bobela gave Liam the wine glass for free as a gift. Both Master and apprentice grinned ear to ear as I took their photo with the finished glass! Liam is very interested in glass and crystal etching after having this opportunity of a lifetime to be taught by a master of this ancient craft. It is truly and experience he will remember his entire life!

Liam watched Mr. Bobela intently for quite some time and would occasionally ask him questions in German. It was their common language. When Liam didn’t quite understand, I’d translate between them. Mr. Bobela was impressed with Liam’s interest in glass etching and that he could speak simple German. Of course he was even more impressed, when Liam addressed him with a few Czech phrases!
I love this photo of the two of them smiling. Mr. Bobela spoke only a few words of English and simple German. This entire lesson was communicated through basic German and a lot of hand gestures!
Pleased Master and Proud Apprentice!
29 May 2019

Our next stop was the Golden Lane. The homes in this “workers” area of the castle were set up to represent trades from the 15-17th centuries. We also toured a few apartments in the Rosenburg Palace of the 18th century. We left Prague Castle after lunch and caught the tram to The Church of the Holy Infant.

Inside the church resides a carved statue of the baby Jesus from the 1500’s. He is inside a golden shrine and owns more that 300+ magnificent robes and clothes.  The Carmelite Sisters in the nearby convent are in charge of maintaining the statue and changing his robes regularly. He is one of the symbols of Prague.The Mana Strala district around the church is full of quaint backstreets and beautiful buildings.

Sweet Baby Jesus
All of the sidewalks in Prague looked like this. The mosaic cobblestone was in excellent condition.
As we walked through the streets of the Mana Strala District we came across this little marionette shop. This is what nightmares are made of! I’m terrified of clowns!
Mmmm delicious gingerbread!

A quick tram ride and a lovely walk through the park brought us to the Czech Folk Arts Museum. Everyone enjoyed learning about local traditions and admiring the beautiful folk clothes and artifacts. The people of the Czech Republic are originally Bohemians. Many of the Western Bohemian clothing trends were inspired by the original patterns and colors of this region.

Traditional Czech wedding outfits

We made our way to St. Charles Bridge. Right before crossing this iconic 15th century bridge we ate a traditional Czech dessert…a coiled cinnamon pastry with chocolate or ice cream inside. We crossed the bridge admiring all the street artists and musicians and made our way over to the old Jewish Ghetto and walked by a Synagogue from the 14th century. Unfortunately it was closed, but the neighborhood was lovely.

The delicious Czech dessert:
It was called a chimney cake in English.
The center of the St Charles Bridge

A short stroll brought us back to the main Old Town Square and a large marionette shop. Faywen got a cute little Puss n’ Boots marionette and we picked up a couple of souvenirs for family there too. After dinner we walked back to our apartment as the sunset cast hues of pink and orange over the silhouette of St. Vitus and the Prague skyline.

Faywen with her new Puss n’ Boots marionette
Sunset over the Vltava River and St. Vitus in Prague, Czech Republic