All the kids hugged Turah goodbye as they headed off to school. “I love you, big hugs, and a few misty tears” were felt and said by everyone. Over breakfast Robert and I had a nice chat with Turah and reflected on the past two weeks.

Around lunchtime we escorted her to the airport. It was rather hard to say goodbye! We all hugged tightly for a long time. We prayed together and then watched her go through security. On the other side of security she waved goodbye one last time!

We came back into town and went for lunch at a local place Seamus and his friend Nathanial told us about.  Burgerista is in Jakominiplatz and it’s the only place in town where you can get free refills on drinks! Yes, free refills don’t exist in Europe anywhere, well except in the UK. Seamus and Faywen met me in the Hauptplatz after school let out and we went shoe shopping. We ran into Liam on the tram. The tram and bus system is excellent in Graz and often the kids will ride to places by themselves. Often Robert and I or random siblings will run into each other on the trams coming from various locations throughout town! I think we will all miss the wonderful Graz public transportation system once we return to the States!

Robert had a special dinner with his colleagues up at the Schlossberg Restaurant. It’s a very high-end restaurant. The meal was purchased by the University and so the 4 professors drank 3 bottles of expensive wine and had full course meals! The Chair of the department insisted! Robert didn’t get home until almost midnight. I’m glad he is getting along with his new colleagues.

Even though Seamus’ half birthday wasn’t officially until June 6^th we decided to celebrate a day early while Turah was still visiting us. She and I went out for a last luncheon at a charming outdoor café called El Pasador. We both ordered Tuna Teriyaki. It was another lovely day to eat outside.

We decorated the house with signs celebrating Seamus’ half birthday. For dinner Dad made lomein noodles for Seamus and he had raw coffee beans and Austrian like Twinkies for his half birthday treat. Keeping in the half birthday absurdity, his siblings creatively presented him with unique gifts.  Liam gave Seamus an empty granola wrapper. Faywen made an aluminum foil “likeness” of Seamus, but Turah’s gift made us all laugh till our sides hurt! As a joke she had found him a cheap toddler’s play ice cream set, because he was always asking for ice cream on our trip! He did get one serious gift from me, a Hermann Teddy plush brown bear. He’s my Pookey Bear! Hermann Teddy is a well-known German plush toy maker. I had already given the other kids their special “animals” so it was Seamus’ turn.

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Despite the light evening rain Turah and Liam walked up the hill behind our house so she could see the lovely view of Graz and valley from our mountainside. Today was truly a wonderful family day!

Once again Turah and I spent the day out while everyone was at school and work. Today we went downtown, but strolled along the Mur River instead of staying in the Hautplatz. I took her to the artsy Murinsel Bridge in the centre of the river. It looks like a sparkling silver seashell floating in the river.

Later that afternoon the whole family went to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Schloss Eggenberg. This is the palace that is nearby to us. It shares a property line with the kids’ school. Since it was the last tour of the day there was only one other person on the tour with us. We practically had the beautiful gardens to ourselves as well. The Baroque Palace has a theme that is based on seasons, months, years, days, and minutes. Every aspect of the home was in balance with one of these themes. I personally love d the grand reception ballroom with it’s crystal chandeliers and black and while marble floors.

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After the tour we strolled through the gardens and had fun watching the peacocks. These are the same peacocks I’ve written about before. These majestic birds hop the fence that is shard by GIBS, the kids’ school. The peacocks know that the schoolchildren eat lunch and have snacks outside in the courtyard and drop yummy tidbits for the birds to eat!

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Rudolf’s is a family run restaurant right outside the Palace gates and we all enjoyed a nice dinner out on the patio. After dinner we walked through the Schloss Eggenberg neighborhood and admired all the pretty 19^th century homes before catching the tram back home.

While Turah’s siblings were at school she and I went downtown to do some shopping. We stopped to have lunch on the rooftop of K&O Department Store in downtown Graz. It was sunny and we had a nice view of the Schlossberg Uhrturm (clock tower) and the red tiled roofs of Graz. Turah enjoyed eating a traditional Flammkuchen, which is a kind of flatbread with savory food toppings.

In the evening we headed back downtown to eat at Faywen’s favorite restaurant, Gyradiko. It serves incredible Greek food! Nearby was the funicular, which took us up the Schlossberg. It was a beautiful evening to ride up the funicular and walk around. The city was alive down below with voices, plates tinkling, and glasses toasting. The sunset over Graz was a beautiful purple-pink.

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Robert, Faywen, and I came home while Liam took Turah for a Pint of Guinness at his favorite Irish Pub, O’Caroline’s, Graz actually has four Irish pubs! In Austrian the legally drinking age for beer and wine is 16 and hard liquor is 18, however you cannot get your license to drive until you are 18 years old. Turah was pleasantly surprised to see how independent, confident, and friendly Liam was. She noted that the pub staff knows him and was excited to meet his big sister. Some of the staff were Austrian and the owners are Irish. I’m glad she had an opportunity to spend time with her little brother.

This is just a quick little entry about Turah’s first long European train ride. We arrived at the Vienna Hauptbahnhof just before noon. Turah enjoyed her first long distance train ride through the Austrian countryside. It takes about 2 ½ hours by train from Vienna to Graz. Once back in Graz we purchased groceries and went home. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing and unpacking.

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral is the heart of Vienna. It was important that Turah also got to see this magnificent gothic church.  Since the rest of us had seen the church back in March, Liam volunteered to take Turah on the guided Catacomb tour and into the center part of the sanctuary.  It was lovely to see the main sanctuary again and also hear the choir practice for Mass. The rest of us went shopping in the main square while Liam and Turah took the tours. She enjoyed the tours and special time with her brother.

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We hopped onto the subway towards the Hofburg Palace and Museum Quarter.  Our first stop in this district was the National Art Museum. The museum contained masterpieces by Van Dyke, Rueben, Dürer, Holbein, and Raphael. My favorite was a portrait of “Rest on the Flight to Egypt”. Not only did we see great works of art, but also there was an exhibit with artifacts found in and around Vienna within and the last 2,000 years. I liked the solid 2,000 yr old crystal pitcher, the backgammon board from the 1400’s, and the 16^th century musical doll.

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The National Treasury was next on our list. The jewelry, robes, and tapestries of the Hapsburg Empire were visually stunning. The largest single emerald in the world is there. It’s roughly 2600 carats. It was made into an unction vessel. Supposedly the museum has the crown and sword used at the coronation of the first Christian Emperor Charlemagne. Holy relics were also present with supposed splinters from the Cross, fabric shards of the burial linen, and the spear that pierced Christ’s side were on display. These items have never been authenticated, but stand in good favor purely on historical tradition. The treasury was full of richly embroidered herald and clerical robes and stunning jewelry pieces, including a magnificent opal set with flanking Hapsburg Eagles.

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From the National Treasury we walked through the various courtyards of Hofburg Palace. In these courtyards were iconic sites like the church where the Vienna Boys Choir sings every Sunday and the Lipizzaner Horse Stables, which are the homes of the horses used in the Spanish Riding School.  As we left the Palace grounds we took a moment to admire the small Roman ruins excavated right outside the majestic portico where guests were received at Hofburg Palace.

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A few blocks from the palace brought us to the Abbey of the Scots market. I purchased a handmade shopping basket in the style commonly used in Austria. Nearby an open pedestrian walk was alive with people enjoying open-air cafés and shops. There was even a brass band playing in the square!

At 6:00 we arrived at our favorite restaurant in Vienna, the Augustiner Keller. Built in the 13^th century it is charming and serves traditional Viennese food. Our accordion friend, Mr. Peter, was there and he remembered us from two months ago and immediately was singing duets with Faywen and the family. He tried wooing Turah with French love songs, played Sinatra while Robert and Liam sang, and even got Seamus to clap along to a traditional Slovakian folk tune. But Faywen loves Mr. Peter the most, and they sang several “Sound of Music” selections. He’s always been impressed with her singing voice and musicality! He is a Professor of Accordion at the Vienna School of Music, but is originally from Slovakia.

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In order to walk off dinner we headed toward the Stadtpark. The kids wanted to show Turah the “golden statue of the six nippled man” a.k.a. the statue of Johann Strauss Sr. in a six buttoned waistcoat! We crossed the Nose Statue Bridge over the stinky canal and the kids enjoyed playing on Viennese “danger” playground equipment. As the sun set the buildings cast a creamy glow on old Vienna!

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We woke up early because we had entry tickets to Schönbrunn Palace at 9:15 to see the Royal Apartments and Imperial Grand Rooms. Schönbrunn was the summer palace of the Hapsburgs, the reigning royal family of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Built in the 17-18^th century the stunning Ricoco yellow palace and its formal gardens was a visual feast. The reign of two different monarchs were depicted in the royal rooms; the mid 18^th century reign of Empress Maria Theresia and the last great Hapsburg rulers of the late 19^th century King Franz Josef and his wife Elizabeth (Sisi). Franz Josef actually reigned 68 years and died in 1916 during WWI. He was the longest ruling Hapsburg king in the dynasty’s 600+ year history. His nephew Karl, the last official Hapsburg king, was forced to absolve the monarchy in 1918.

After viewing the ornate royal apartments and staterooms we entered the Privy Garden and strolled along the vine covered arbor paths. Climbing a set of stairs we found ourselves looking onto a magnificent view of the gardens and side of the palace.

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At 11:00 we had lunch at the palace café and then temporarily left Schonbrünn Palace. It was a lovely spring day so we didn’t mind having to travel 20 minutes back to the innerstadt in order to make our 1:00 tour at the Vienna Musikverein. This famous music hall has personal significance for our family. Every year we have gathered on New Years Day and watched  “The Vienna Philharmonic: New Years Day Concert”. This annual concert, of Strauss Famous music and other famous Austrian composers, is held in the Golden Hall of the Musikverein.

Two months ago we attended a concert at the Musikverein, but the tour really helped us understand in depth the history and architecture of the building. Our guide was informative and he told us not only about the famous Golden Hall, but also the Brahm’s Chamber Music Hall and the Rehearsal Rooms, which are 30 meters under the Platz (square) in front of the Musikverein. I was particularly impressed with the four full size rehearsal spaces.  Upon exiting the Musikverein we could hear and see a public demonstration against a political party currently under investigation in the Austrian Parliament. It was interesting to witness, a few blocks away, the people’s voices in action.

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Within 20 minutes we were back at Schonbrünn Palace to continue the extensive garden tours. We saw the Orangery (which had palm trees and lemon trees), the fun maze gardens, and finally the hike uphill to the “Gloriette”. This Grecian double colonnade sits atop one of the highest points in Vienna.  The views of the Palace, gardens, and entire city of Vienna were phenomenal! The sun was shining and the cool breeze made it very pleasant to be on the hillside! Back down the hill we strolled through the fragrant rose gardens. There was a little café tucked behind the roses where we had a refreshing drink and afternoon snack.

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That evening we took Turah to our favorite Italian chain restaurant, Vapiano’s. We’ve eaten at several Vapiano’s throughout Europe. After supper we meandered around in the St. Stephen’s Platz Market. All of the vendors were selling local foods and crafts. We purchased Austrian honey and cheese. Our favorite stall belonged to Mikal, who was originally from Russia but had immigrated to Austria when he was a teenager. He was an artist and his art medium was ink linocuts. Turah chose two art pieces, one for herself and one for a friend. We also purchased two lovely linocuts, one of cats and the other of St. Stpehen’s, the Cathedral which majestically rose in front of Mikal’s art stall… as it has done for hundreds of years overlooking other market vendors.

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We checked out of our apartment and bid Prague goodbye! After being delayed on the highway for 30 minutes and Google warning us of future backups. Robert plotted another course for us to take to Vienna. It was better to drive through the charming villages and farmland of the Czech countryside.

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I’m glad we were forced off the highway because the Czech countryside was breathtaking. Our eyes were treated to rolling green hills, colorful little villages, and fields of yellow flowers offset by large sections of woodland. Curious as to what the yellow flowers were we stopped and took a photo. I later discovered the flower is the rapeseed plant used to make canola oil.

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Near the Czech/Austrian border we stopped at a local vineyard to have a glass of Czech wine. We sat in the sunshine sipping wine grown in the vineyards beside us on the hillside.  Saduk vineyards and hotel was a small family operated affair and the staff was very friendly.

Once in Vienna, Robert dropped us off at our apartment and then turned in the rental car. Our apartment was little, but right in the heart of  Innerstadt Vienna. Because we had been to Vienna before, Liam knew his way around town. He decided to show Turah around by taking her out to find a local grocery and buy food for breakfast. Turah commented how surreal it is listening to her siblings communicate in German!

Cloudy, but not rainy we headed over the river via tram to Prague Castle. We arrived just in time to see the Changing of the Guard. After the 10-minute ceremony we entered the castle complex and went straight to St. Vitus, the 14^th century gothic church that lies right in the centre of the castle. St. Vitus can be seen even from across the river with it’s dark stone and towering 15^th century spires. Inside are the tombs of St. Vitus and St. Wenceslas. St. Vitus’ tomb was quite impressive with the phenomenal ornate silverwork tomb lying behind the High Altar. St. Wenceslas, who we know from the Christmas Carol “Good King Wenceslas Looked Down on the Feast of Stephen” is the patron Saint of Prague. He was also a beloved King of the Bohemian people ruling in the early 10^th century. He had an entire chapel for his burial.

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A few steps from St. Vitus was the Basilica of St. George which was smaller and built in the year 972.  The inside of St. George’s was much simpler, but elegant. The frescos were faded on the walls and yet the light played with the eyes as you looked up at the vaulted stone alcoves along the second floor.

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We meandered through the palace streets and soon found ourselves in the Egermann Glass Shop. Egermann is one of the oldest Czech Bohemian Crystal producers. The etched glasses and porcelain pieces were stunning. While we shopped Liam intently watched the master glass etcher, Mr. Bobela. After 20 minutes or so or. Bobela invited Liam to try and etch on a wine glass he had been working on. We found out later from a clerk, that this was a rare occurrence and that Liam was the youngest person ever to be taught by the 30+ year master! Mr. Bobela showed Laiam how to use the etching wheel and lathe. He carefully instructed Liam on how to etch a flower. Liam used the freshly etched flower on the other side of the glass as a guide. It took Liam about 20 minutes to make the flower and vine. Mr. Bobela was very impressed with Liam’s “natural talent” and said that Liam had “an eye” for the detailed work. Mr. Bobela etched his name and Liam’s name slightly bigger along with the date, into the red crystal wine glass. The red color comes from triple firing the crystal mixed with gold. Mr. Bobela gave Liam the wine glass for free as a gift. Both Master and apprentice grinned ear to ear as I took their photo with the finished glass! Liam is very interested in glass and crystal etching after having this opportunity of a lifetime to be taught by a master of this ancient craft. It is truly and experience he will remember his entire life!

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Our next stop was the Golden Lane. The homes in this “workers” area of the castle were set up to represent trades from the 15-17^th centuries. We also toured a few apartments in the Rosenburg Palace of the 18^th century. We left Prague Castle after lunch and caught the tram to The Church of the Holy Infant.

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Inside the church resides a carved statue of the baby Jesus from the 1500’s. He is inside a golden shrine and owns more that 300+ magnificent robes and clothes.  The Carmelite Sisters in the nearby convent are in charge of maintaining the statue and changing his robes regularly. He is one of the symbols of Prague.The Mana Strala district around the church is full of quaint backstreets and beautiful buildings.

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A quick tram ride and a lovely walk through the park brought us to the Czech Folk Arts Museum. Everyone enjoyed learning about local traditions and admiring the beautiful folk clothes and artifacts. The people of the Czech Republic are originally Bohemians. Many of the Western Bohemian clothing trends were inspired by the original patterns and colors of this region.

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We made our way to St. Charles Bridge. Right before crossing this iconic 15^th century bridge we ate a traditional Czech dessert…a coiled cinnamon pastry with chocolate or ice cream inside. We crossed the bridge admiring all the street artists and musicians and made our way over to the old Jewish Ghetto and walked by a Synagogue from the 14^th century. Unfortunately it was closed, but the neighborhood was lovely.

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A short stroll brought us back to the main Old Town Square and a large marionette shop. Faywen got a cute little Puss n’ Boots marionette and we picked up a couple of souvenirs for family there too. After dinner we walked back to our apartment as the sunset cast hues of pink and orange over the silhouette of St. Vitus and the Prague skyline.

“Gray skies are gonna clear up”…or at least that’s what we hoped as we steeped out and walked down to the Vltava River walk. Unfortunately it would rain off and on until late afternoon, but it didn’t dampen our spirits.

The rain held off as we walked the river’s edge watching all of the boats travel up and down. We soon found ourselves at the foot of a hill, which we climbed to reach St. Peter and Paul’s Church. The façade was a dark brown and black color accented with bright Byzantine like mosaics making it one of the most unique church buildings I’ve ever seen. Just to the right of the front doors was an elaborate wrought iron gate, which led into a beautiful old graveyard. Three sides of the graveyard consisted of gated family graves. We were looking for one in particular, that of Antonin Dvorak and his wife, Anna. Dvorak was a celebrated Czech composer who also spent time in America. Many of his most famous orchestral works are based on Slavic and American folk songs including the “Going Home” movement from the New World Symphony and his Hungarian Dances.

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Liam and I both love Dvorak’s music and so when we left the graveyard we walked about 10 minutes to the Dvorak Museum located in one of his homes in Prague. The museum was well organized and it displayed many of his music compositions and personal items. Faywen loved the fact that Dvorak played the viola!

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The skies opened while we were in the museum and the rain continued as we walked along the streets. We popped into a little mall and purchased 3 more umbrellas. It was lunchtime and we were near our apartment so we went home to dry off and eat.

The rain lessened a bit so we headed out once again this time towards Wenceslas Square, the Prague Opera House, and eventually into the Czech National Museum.  The quadruple marble staircase was a feast for the eyes! The 20^th century Czechoslovakia exhibit was very interesting. Robert and I particularly found the old Soviet propaganda and photos from the 1970’s-80’s memorable. We found a Czech flag made by prisoners at the Dachau Concentration Camp. It had been placed on the shoulders of the first US soldier to enter the camp on liberation day. We had read about this story while at Dachau last month.

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In front of the museum was the Wenceslas square and the main shopping thoroughfare for Prague. It reminded me a lot of O’Connell Street in Dublin. A few blocks and we were once again in the heart of Old Town Prague. The architecture of the 17-18^th century painted buildings made the Old Town Square look like it had popped out of a European storybook! In one of these buildings we attended a musical concert. Members of the Dvorak Symphony Orchestra gave the concert. The quintet played Bizet, 3 Dvorak selections, Smetana, and the entire “Seasons” by Vivaldi.

We ate dinner in an old 12^th century cellar. The White Horse had delicious food and live music. Right at the end of our meal, Faywen went over and asked the musician to play “Country Roads”. He put in a pre-recorded track and everyone in the restaurant sang along. It was entertaining to be singing this song in an ancient cellar turned fancy restaurant in Prague! We’ve discovered that the song is very popular throughout Europe.  Faywen and I went over to say thank you and give him a tip. Ariminio was very kind and also visually impaired. We immediately bonded once Faywen mentioned I was legally blind. He has tunnel vision and makes his living as a musician. I took a cute photo of Faywen holding Mr. Ariminio’s guitar. Just after we left the restaurant the 16^th century Astronomical Clock chimed. It is the oldest clock of it’s kind still in operation. It chimed 21 times for the 21^st hour of the day. We walked home as dusk settled in and the lights turned on in the